Engine ice Hi-performance coolant - tyds008 - engine ice 81081100

Product Information

By correctly maintaining your vehicle’s coolant system with the right product in the proper timeline, you’ll be able to have peace of mind that your machine will perform at its optimum level whenever necessary. Wetting agents have been around since the steam engine days and they help with reducing corrosion, increasing heat transfer both a good thing. If nobody has tried it, I may pick some up and try it out depending upon how expensive it is and compare it to distilled water mixed with regular antifreeze. How can I do to 'induce' the coolsntbin the plastic tank to circulate and flush through the radiator drain cap? With different types of glycol, water, and additive technologies, the chance of cross-contamination or an adverse reaction in the solution is very high.

The water moves the heat from the engine to the radiators more efficiently, it just boils at a lower temp too. Also unless I’m seriously mistaken “Engine Ice” is designed to help keep engine temps down/stable while racing and does Not have antifreeze characteristics.When you replace the flushed system with new coolant it just gets mixed with the old stuff left over. If you are switching brands drain system with the lower rad drain and the front cyl plug, then fill it with distilled or de-ionized water. The Tt LCS certification was created so that we at Thermaltake can designate to all power users which chassis have been tested to be best compatible with extreme liquid cooling configurations to ensure you get the best performance from the best features and fitment. From Motocross to Road Racing to ATV Racing and Auto Racing and Karting, Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant has proven to be the best.

You may have a clogged or calcium coated radiator impeding cooling, poor circulation, or you could have a combustion leak (most always from a head gasket). However, I will probably stop using it all together now that you all here have posted the freeze point of it… I do not like that….

In short, yes, it is highly recommended that anytime you change your coolant, you should flush the system. The rear cyl will drain as is and the front, hell, not enough to bother with removing the screw unless you are switching antifreeze brands and want the last tea spoon out of the system. From a performance point of view, ethylene based anti-freeze would be considered as the "better" one but also as the more poisonous one. Thanks to the TT exclusive formula, the old days of repeatedly unplugging the system or waiting for 12 to 24 hours for the air to clear out after filling the loop is behind us.

In the owner's manual for my 2003 S4 it says that the blue coolant is just what they put in when it rolls out of the factory. Due to X1 being a reformulated vegetable extract the colour of the coolant can vary from clear to straw yellow in colour. Based on the attached image, then the following should not be used (yes, I realize depending on color is problematic): green, yellow or purple. If you fill it to the top, just warming up to 255 will force some coolant out due to expansion, but the coolant level should settle out right about where the cold coolant is just at the tops of the radiator core tubes.

I posted a small tidbit about a product that has proven itself to me, and mentioned it helped with a couple items. So if it (in theory) helps keep isolated areas of my engine head cooler and it doesn't hinder but can help. Corrosion often produces sludge, which, if left in the system, builds up and can cause rusting and ultimately leaks in the system. Engine Ice Hi-Performance Coolant TM demonstrates outstanding cooling capabilities and corrosion prevention performance in all government, manufacturer and standard industry tests. Environmentally responsible food safe non toxic biodegradable product—good for you, good for your PC, and good for the planet.

I was lucky that one of the two cars was still in warranty so that one did not cost me but the other one did cost me for a new pump and timing belt. I added just enough to the overflow reservoir to bring the level from just below the low mark, to the full mark. When you are unsure, the best action is to drain and flush the system and replace it with fresh Engine Ice. This exposes hot engine components to air and vapors, causing corrosion and contamination of the coolant with iron oxide particles, which in turn can aggravate the pressure cap problem as contamination holds the caps open permanently.Make specific there is no oxygen using the lines by examining the oxygen bleed valve below the oxygen box. It can sit and idle for as long as you want it seems like, and won't boil over, once the coolant level is down to where it doesn't expand and cause so much pressure that it bleeds out. To parrot what others have said, you should be concerned about that -7F freezing point more than it gelling on you, especially if you topped it off with the same color antifreeze.