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The sheer numbers are dizzying. All this oil, just for clothes? All this labour and energy expended – to end up as waste in a pile, to be buried or burned? Brands currently "guess" how many pieces of each style they are going to produce, Lee said, and making the clothes takes three to six months before they are sent to stores or put online. What doesn't get sold at full price is marked down. "When it's so cheap, or 70% off, (people think) I don't really need it, but you know what 70% is worth it, (so) I'm going to get that. And then you buy stuff you don't really need," Lee said.

Last year, with the forthcoming Strategy for sustainable textiles in mind, a large group of NGOs, including Plastic Soup Foundation, sent a joint report with recommendations to the European Commission. To put an end to the contested export of low-value discarded clothing which recipient countries can do nothing with, it primarily argued for: Because polyester is basically plastic, it takes years to break down. Different synthetic fibres like polyester are often blended to make fabric, making them hard to separate. There is something rather heartening in this admission, though. As uncomfortable as it is to read about such moments of sartorial disaster and distress (as well as a good dose of defiance), they demonstrate that it's not unusual to endure a moment of rising panic in a suit that leaves us itchily out of place or a skirt that misreads the room. They understand that to exist in public is to potentially feel vulnerable, and that a dress really can make or ruin an evening. As many of us find ourselves navigating new wardrobe choices and the watchful eyes of others once more after a year of minimal socialising, this thought isn't altogether reassuring. However it does offer solace in reminding us that if our garments suddenly make us feel ill at ease, we're certainly not alone. Brands have to be committed to say: I'm going to eliminate this raw material polyester, for example, from my supply chain in five to 10 years' time, forcing people to find alternative ways, which are more sustainable. It is the brands' CEOs' responsibility to do that," Lee said. Giving new meaning to the phrase ‘fashion victim’, a 35-year-old Australian woman had to be cut out of a pair of skinny jeans after developing a condition called compartment syndrome. It’s not the first time someone has succumbed to a dangerous style trend: “They’ve always been around, since the Stone Ages,” says Summer Strevens, the author of Fashionably Fatal. “It’s when fashion is taken to an extreme; I call it vanity insanity.” Here are five of the deadliest fads in history.

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Why is there so much clothing now? What’s it made of and who made it all? And where does it all end up when it’s no longer wanted? Buying far less, spending a bit more on better quality garments, and supporting ethical brands are just a few ways to become a sustainability trendsetter. Fast fashion has boomed on the availability of synthetic fibres. These fabrics may be cheap at the point of sale, but they form part of a petrochemical economy which is fueling run away climate change and pollution. In the year that the UK hosts COP 26, we need to see action from the government and industry to create a more sustainable fashion system.

Recycling textiles can be difficult and expensive. Take a look at any clothing label – fibres are often so mixed up, they’ll never be separated and reused in any useful way. And again, with such large volumes, made with massive amounts of cheap materials, wastage in factories is also high. The dangers to nature, the climate and all human life of an out-of-control fashion industry are immense. Fast fashion is designed to be disposable Like those other women in their uncomfortable dresses, Miss Brill is undone by a moment of shattered self-perception. She briefly conceives of herself as something more – something beautiful and worthy of attention – and is humiliated for daring to believe it. She cannot escape the body beneath the fur, suddenly reminded of her age and taste just as others are unpleasantly reminded by their outfits of their size or class or sense of social inadequacy. Her story is both unremarkable and unbearable. The fantasy is destroyed. The fur is forever tarnished.Companies create more clothes than we realistically need or want, or that we can dispose of safely. And because so much of it is all sold so cheaply, it becomes easy to buy – perhaps not even wear – and then to throw away. The UK is the biggest exporter to Ghana. In fact, the UK produces the most clothing waste in Europe. And we’re the second largest used clothing exporter in the world, after the US.

And – even 10 years on from the Rana Plaza factory collapse – the fast fashion industry is still a chain of human misery. Some 75 million people (mostly women) are extremely poorly paid for skilled work in fashion manufacturing. Deadly industrial accidents still happen regularly. That was a decade ago, and if anything the problem of waste in fashion has gone into overdrive – the exploitation of lives; of human labour and skill; all the way to the garment waste ending up on Ghanaian beaches.

This doesn’t mean eliminating the use of plastics in clothing entirely — but it does mean using it carefully. We can no longer use plastics to create poorly-made garments which are designed to be worn only a handful of times. Other materials, such as cotton and viscose, can also create environmental problems, so ultimately it is the scale of production that needs to change.”