Honeywell V4043H 1056 2 Port Zone Valve Normally Closed 22mm

Product Information

In normal operation, with a heat-only boiler, central heating water is heated in the boiler and then pumped round the system by a circulating pump. Motorised valves are used to split or divert the flow. The heated water can either be sent to the radiators (or underfloor heating) or to the cylinder coil to heat the domestic hot tap water. The cooled circulating water is then returned to the boiler to be heated again. Honeywell make a large range of motorised valves used in domestic central heating systems. The most common by far are the 22mm 3-port, 5-wire, mid-position valve and the 22mm 2-port, 5-wire, zone valve. These 22mm valves (3-port V4073A1039 and 2-port V4043H1056) are used in smaller and medium sized properties.

Honeywell Home 2-Port Motorised Zone Valve 1 Inch BSP

It will make it easier when re-fitting it (just remember which end the flex was connected or take a picture on your phone). The powerhead can only fit one way round onto the valve body but if space is tight that might not be obvious. There is, however, more information the lever can give us if we know what we’re looking for. The lever pushes the valve open against the return spring. The valve does not pull the lever over towards the open end as the valve opens.

Specification

If Hot Water is then satisfied (either by the programmer or cylinder stat), the grey wire is energised. As there is still a demand for Heating, the valve will motor to the Heating Only position (port A open; port B closed) and switch a 230V supply onto the orange wire, to power the boiler.

Honeywell Home 2 Port Motorised Zone Plumbing Heating Valve

The Honeywell valves have a D-shaped top to the spindle but you can also use a spanner on this. If you do this, you must use very little force as it is very easy to shear a spindle or damage the valve internally. System boilers may also have a diverter valve or zone valve built into them and might not have any external zone valves. This banging occurs due to air in the pipes. If I goto the loft and bleed the top-most valve the banging will go away. I can then use the HW again but I end up having the same problem."

Details

V4043C1156 is a 2 port, ½” BSP Female threaded, 3-wire, normally-closed zone valve but has no end switch A failed motor will prevent the motorised valve from opening but it is not the only cause of a valve failing to open correctly. After years of use, the O rings sealing the valve spindle (or actuator shaft) can fail. When this happens, central heating water will seep past and will corrode the metals. Slide the blunt end of the motor sideways until the flange comes out from the tab holding it down. This can be a bit of a fiddle. The motor then comes free of the valve, held only by the two wires which connect it electrically. These two wires may be blue (in a Honeywell original Synchron motor) or orange (most replacement Synchron motors). This can be difficult to feel for at first. It is most obvious when the valve has been in the Heating Only position and reverts to the mid-position. The V4043B normally open model is particularly applicable to control of solid fuel systems, since it will always fail-safe in the event of a power failure)

Honeywell Home V4043H1106/U 2 Port Motorised Valve - Screwfix Honeywell Home V4043H1106/U 2 Port Motorised Valve - Screwfix

These valves have compression pipe connections, though Honeywell make motorised valves with threaded connections too. How motorised valves are used The Honeywell motorised valve faults detailed above are likely to apply to most domestic Honeywell valves. If you turn the hot water on and the programmer instructs the valve to open, then you should feel the lever will move freely (try to move it before you turn the programmer to the on position - you will feel some resistance, to compare the difference). If the property uses a combi boiler (rather than a heat-only boiler) the boiler will usually contain a diverter valve. In small properties there may be no other motorised valves. There are lots of poor quality synchronous motors out there. If the motor cap says “Synchronous” rather than “SYNCHRON ®” it may cost less than half but you’ll probably be changing it again before long!Starting with the controls set for Heating Only, hold the lever tight against the right side of the slot. Now get someone to select Hot Water too, so you get Heating and Hot Water together. You may need to turn the cylinder stat up to make it call. As soon as Hot Water is also called, you will hearthe valve start to unwind under the force of the spring, then you will feel the lever “bump” your finger. If the valve motor fails, the motorised valve will not open. The valve will not then close the end switch and so will not complete the auxiliary circuit. The boiler will not fire (with no open pipe circuit to dissipate the heat), unless another motorised valve opens another pipe circuit and calls the boiler into action. This prevents the boiler firing and the pump running when there is no water circuit open. We find it is normally about 2.1kΩ (2100 ohms) if the motor is cold and up to 2.4kΩ (2400 ohms) if the motor is quite warm. I think that a reading anywhere between 2.0kΩ (2000 ohms) and 2.5kΩ (2500 ohms) suggests that the motor windings are probably OK. If the reading is many times higher than that, or it is open circuit, the motor has failed. As Boilers and radiators are installed by third parties, they do have to install in compliance with regulations and manufacturer standards to get the full benefit of the warranty.