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Posted 20 hours ago

Furniture Clinic Wood Stain (Natural Oak) – Fast Drying, Highly Concentrated, and Easy-to-Apply Wood Stain for All Indoor & Outdoor Wood – Water Based & Non-Toxic – 250ml

£9.9£99Clearance
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My apologies for the delay in getting back to you, a popular product for beams is a wax, they need little to protect, just a product that will nourish and add colour if required and for this you could have a look at the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish this will give a very subtle and natural finish. I sanded this down to a perfect finish, then applied ronseal medium oak stain varnish over the entire surface.

I’m currently designing 5x oak sash windows to replace the rotten old softwood ones currently in my house.Depending on the exposure a year might be too soon and the wood will not be ready to accept more oil, so wait another year and look again. I have an internal situation where there is tannin staining on the surface, I cannot believe that water is getting through the thick oak beams, so it must be coming round/over and between joints.

It is always better to apply a coloured oil, the pigments are far better for UV protection and reduce the natural silvering of the wood.We do have a really good product from Sikkens that you could take a look at Sikkens Cetol TSI Satin Plus which can be applied over existing finishes if a test area proves positive and has 5 colour options in the range or alternatively the Ronseal Diamond Hard Interior Coloured Varnish Satin which has slight more colour options with 12 available. When this happens some or all of the oil may have dried in the surface and this will offer little protection and is probably why it is marking so easily. It also depends on what the current finish is and what you are planning to apply over it if you are not taking back to bare wood.

Perhaps you could sand a small area to see what the result is, if the natural colour of the wood is lighter.

We had a green oak porch built in Feb this year and all the rain water is coming though at the bottom and marking all the wood.

If you need any further help or advice please do not hesitate to get in touch with me via our contact us page. with hundreds of Pine species, all will give a different final tone to the colour in one way or another. I think i’ve found a reasonable coating that is a nice matte finish, but the doors appear to have either been left raw/bare wood (some even have the manufacturer labels still attached!There is the option of once it is dry that you can use the Wood Reviver Gel to get some of the original colour back to the wood, test areas are always recommended. It looks like it could use a high pressure cleaner on it to clean out all the crannies but I have been reading comments above and noticed that water will turn it black. Traditional Oil-Based Stains: Oil-based stains have long been popular for achieving rich, deep colours on oak wood. I would say your best option will be to treat the cladding before putting up, this way you will be able to apply to both sides of the boards for a better level of protection. There is a general consensus that one inch per year is the drying time of green oak, but again I would not say this is a given.

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