SHIMANO Special grease for pawl-type Freehub bodies 50 g,White

Product Information

It’s dry, clean, lasts a long time, is super fast, works well in wet conditions too, and closely approximates the performance of a factory-treated race day chain like their own UFO treatment or IceFriction’s similar offering. L80 provides a residual lubrication, which is added insurance, combined with savings through less wear and downtime, making it an economical benefit. It’s really little more than an ornate way of defining a numerical scale used for classifying the consistency of lubricating greases, based on the ASTM D217 worked penetration at 25°C (77°F).

There’s a good chance that if you don’t regularly maintain your hubs, then everything inside will be pretty filthy. This grease, which is much like Phil Wood (but to me it seems to last longer than Phil's), is pretty darn good imho, especially given the amount of rain we see here in Beglium, and it just keeps repelling water and sticking right where I put it. For brake fittings, since you mentioned it, there are even products that don’t react negatively with the fluid or hose material or bladder/seal material within caliper or lever; SRAM offers a DOT grease to be used with its DOT-fluid based braking systems on the coupling nut. We also handed up lots of bottles of plain water simply for Kate to spray on her cassette and around the crank/chainring to offset mud accumulation which can derail (pun intended) even my best efforts to prepare a fast bike. Carbon paste reduces the need for bolt torque and thus clamping force, eliminating or reducing the stress applied to a clamped carbon tube — carbon is super strong but over tightening it inside of a stem clamp for example can expose its Achilles heel— once it is crushed and the integrity of the fibers or the resin structure is damaged, it is not safe to use.

In theory, the larger number of ring-based contacts in a ratchet should be more reliable and transmit force better, although in practice pawl-based systems are well enough engineered that this is unlikely to be an issue if they’re maintained regularly. With most shimano and shimano clone freehubs, whatever lube is in the RH hub bearing ends up in the freehub body, provided it is fluid enough. Some freehubs are designed for tool-free removal from the wheel, while others require specialist tools. I actually trim the bearing seals around the edge to reduce the drag of the contact between the rubber seal and the bearing race.

With a rim brake hub this can be done via a drilling, and you should expect to have to wipe up excess coming out of the hub for the first few hundred miles. What type of grease should folks use when cleaning and re-packing bearings, like those in the bottom bracket? The only time I think I ever bought a specialty bike lube was back in the days of microlube ports on Manitou forks. Make sure you lube the freehub seal and where it meets the hub and your end caps to hub and hub bearings.It’s a small component we tend to take for granted, but the freehub is an essential part of most bikes and does a vital job.