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Creality Official “Sprite” Extruder Pro-Kit, Suitable for Ender 3/3 Pro/ 3 V2/ 3 Max/ 3 S1, Satisfy Near-end Printing and High-temperature Printing

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There is no reason to replace the whole Sprite extruder with the Pro version if you only want to improve thermal performance and eliminate maintenance from time to time, to replace the PTFE tube. Basically, yes it is compatible with any board but this extruder is designed for the Ender 3 S1 only and is difficult to install on other printers. instead I would recommend the Sprite Extruder Pro which comes with a cable and mount which is suitable for Ender 3-style printers. Please note, it comes with standard Creality connections (JST-XH) so if you're board uses other ones you may have to change them. thank you for this. I will definitely be on her asking questions as I work through this process on my S1 Before mounting the Sprite extruder, you need to cut the included PTFE tube to the proper length. You can use the extruder to measure the correct length as shown below. The tube should extend to the top of the Creality logo box. Once the tube is cut, ensure the opening is not obstructed or squished. You can use the point of the closed nippers to round out the tube.

Sprite Extruder Pro Upgrade Kit - 3DJake International Sprite Extruder Pro Upgrade Kit - 3DJake International

Finally, you are ready to try a test print with the new extruder. Once you’ve configured the e-steps and retraction settings, you can simply find a model, slice it with your slicer software, and print it to ensure everything works properly. Read the full guide carefully and install Klipper on Ender 3 S1 only after you properly understood all the steps involved. If you have questions before starting, leave a comment and wait for a reply. After upgrading to a dual-gear metal extruder or a direct drive extruder, you’ll need to set the E-steps on your printer to match the extruder. The new setting will depend on the specific extruder model you are updating to, and you should always start with the setting in the reference material that is included. Generally, the settings should be close to the below for each extruder type:This drop-in Sprite upgrade offers most of the advantages of a direct drive extruder, but due to its design, it does result in a slightly longer filament path from the extruder to the hot end compared to the fully integrated version of the Sprite. This means its retraction performance isn’t quite on par with the full Sprite upgrade, although it’s much better than a Bowden extruder. Additionally, its ability to print high-temperature materials is dependent on the hot end in use, so you will need an all-metal hot end to print high temperature materials. The Sprite Pro upgrade, on the other hand, includes an integrated all-metal hot end. Heat the nozzle by navigating to Prepare » Preheat PLA. Watch the temperature display on the printer and confirm that it heats up to the chosen temperature and maintains it. This confirms that the hot end is still wired properly and that nothing was damaged during the installation process. One of the hardware features which makes the Ender 3 S1 such a good machine is the Sprite Extruder and Creality is also selling this as an upgrade for other machines. No, you'll need this one: https://www.3djake.uk/creality-3d-printers-spare-parts/sprite-extruder-pro-upgrade-kit The simpler design means they are typically less expensive and result in a lower total printer cost.

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit 300℃ High Temperature | Full Metal

This extruder design is what shipped on the first Creality 3D printers, starting with the CR-10, and it can still be found on some of the newer budget 3D printers like the Ender 3 and Ender 2 Pro. The single-gear design is a fairly simple mechanism, using a single toothed gear attached directly to the extruder motor to drive the filament, with a free turning idler pulley on the other side of the filament. You bought a cute little thingy to add to your Ender 3v2, and that's great. Now you have to do a shit ton more of stuff because you found out Creality's promise that it would be a smooth ride was a lie. A ribbon cable is provided, one can it to the main connector on the extruder and the individual wires on the other side to the mainboard Upgrading Ender 3 S1 Extruder to Sprite Extruder Pro. It's a drop in upgrade to Ender 3 S1 and CR 10 Smart Pro. Next, plug the SD card in your printer and turn it on. The installation process takes about 10 seconds. I recommend you wait for a minute, then remove the SD card and restart your printer. Copy the Ender 3 S1 Klipper config filePlug in the SD card and turn the printer on. This will trigger the board firmware update and the firmware will be flashed. It takes around 30 seconds. IdeaMaker Klipper Profile for Ender 3 S1 You have got me to the Klipper Heavon! This is flow rate – ok i already adjusted to 100 but i will deep into it. Thanks! The gears have sharp teeth that sink into the filament when turning meaning that you need to make sure the tensioning screw for the idler is not too tight. I´m new to ideaMaker but i love it. First i have tried it to adjust under Advanced and then Override Filamanet Primary Flowrate. There was nearly no effect. Only that the measurement was going bad.

Sprite Pro Extruder - 3DJake UK Creality Sprite Pro Extruder - 3DJake UK

The use of gear with 3;5;1 gear ratio which perfectly matches with motor makes extrusion force up to 80N (depening on filaments). More precise control of feeding withdrawal. Direct drive extruders are mounted right above the hot end, and push the filament directly into it. This requires that the extruder moves along with the print head. In the pictures below, you can see the print quality you can expect after upgrading your Ender 3 S1 to Klipper. The first calibration cube was printed with 50mm/s, during my review. The second calibration cube was printed at 100mm/s with the Klipper config shared in this article. First, search for CUSTOM_MACHINE_NAME within the configuration.h file and change the value from your printer to "My Personal Hell", "Hell", or something to that effect. You can also flip off Creality or praise Jyers. This is mandatory. You cannot go on using my tutorial unless you do this crucial part. I don’t think there’s a reason to change it. Maybe because if you print in an enclosure, but even then, the plastic should withstand it.

3.5:1

As you can see, the corners are much better defined, the top layers are cleaner and the print time was shorter. Doesn't by default fit on all Enders. Might need to switch out some bolts on gantry to flatter ones so it can utilize the entire X axis. Had this problem with my Ender 3 Max. With the tensioner, you can adjust the pressure exerted on the filament by the drive gears according to your wishes and requirements, thus printing more precise models.

Sprite Pro and CR Touch Sonic Pad to Ender 3v2 with Sprite Pro and CR Touch

As you can see in the images below, the heat break heatsink reached a temperature of ~41C which is better than I was expecting. It seems that the tiny radial part cooling paired with the airflow over the heatsink gives excellent results. The environmental temperature was ~21C. The Sprite Pro Extruder body is also made from cast aluminum for more resistance to heat and maybe make it a bit stiffer. Filament path is correctly constrained, and paired with the short distance from the gears to the nozzle makes the Sprite Extruder a good performer when printing TPU filament. The last thing you need to know is that in Jyers the Z homing is done off the corner, contrasted with the official Creality firmware. Therefore, you need to mind the header of the Gcode created by Cura (or your slicer). Change the 'home all axes' setting to just home the X and Y axis (so you start from the corner. The double-tooth structure of the dual-gear extruder does not damage the filaments but makes the feeding more reliable and stable. Adding a sprite extruder will make crtouch’s leveling point abnormal, which is not within the scope of the design. The default Ender 3v2 with crtouch firmware for the sonic pad is used without installing a Sprite extruder.

288g

I recently got the new Sprite Extruder Pro kit (all metal hot end) for the Ender 3 V2. I was already running Jyers UI 5X5 mesh version with a CR touch and everything worked fine. Insert the microSD card into your printer. Use the Print menu to select the esteps.gcode file and press Print. The Sprite extruder-only upgrade requires a different e-step value, which is a setting that controls how far the printer needs to turn the extruder motor to extrude a certain amount of filament. You can configure the e-steps for the Sprite extruder using this process: Just for your information. I needed to adjust pressure advance so your settings don`t worked for my filament spool 🙂 Despite its small size of only 54 x 50 x 64.3 mm and a weight of only 288 g, the Sprite Extruder Pro is a powerful combination of extruder and hotend that offers many practical functions.

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