Artillery Sidewinder X1 3D Printer, V4 Version Lattice Glass Heat Bed Aluminum Extrusion Frame & Filament Runout Sensor & Power Failure Recovery 3D Printering, 300x300x400cm

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The printer itself is solid, it works great with minimal configuration, at least with PLA. It has a big print area and you can use it since the print bed is decently heated. If you’re using two rails, don’t tighten the screws on the second one all the way yet—you’ll want it to be able to move to perfectly align with the first rail in a bit. With its integrated cable design, the visual look is refined and maintenance is significantly simplified.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 Firmware With Marlin 2.0.5.3 | 3D Artillery Sidewinder X1 Firmware With Marlin 2.0.5.3 | 3D

Inside the Artillery Sidewinder X1, the cables have been properly fixed. The SWX1 screwed on: good cable management More Details: https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/docs/Probe_Calibrate.md III. Connect to Home Assiatant All in all if you are looking for a big printer this is a good choice, I would definitely buy it again since I mostly print PLA. Oh and as a last thing, the spool holder is trash, I printed one which sits on top of the provided one and its much better. ( the abs stuff and the spool holder thing is why it has 4 not 5 stars from me )The Z axis assembly consists of 40×20 aluminium extrusions. It has dual motors with dual lead screws lifting the X axis. Read the full guide carefully and install BMG Wind on Sidewinder X1 only after you properly understood all the steps involved. If you have questions before starting, leave a comment and wait for a reply. To be honest, I was expecting more from this bi-metal heat break considering that the Trianglelab version worked well for me. But it seems that the Mellow version is not as good so I can’t recommend it. Get the Copperhead heat break or the Trianglelab version.

Artillery Sidewinder X1 V4 - 3DJake UK

Overall, I’ll give the Artillery Sidewinder X1 a “good” rating. The cable management looks nice but there is more. Build QualityI have also tested larger prints to see how the adhesion is over the entire heating bed. The Facehugger – as a bigger test Inside the Klipper Configuration, look for [ mcu] and past your device ID. It’s the same we use when flashing the printer. Example: I wrote a detailed guide on how to calibrate the Artillery Sidewinder X1 to get the best results possible. After flashing the firmware, make sure you first run the G-Code provided, to reset to factory defaults and clear EEPROM. Copy the .gcode file on your SD Card and “print” it. Octoprint installed on a Raspberry Pi (Preferably a Pi 3B or higher but any Linux PC will also work)

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I liked that the axes/printhead were fixed with cable ties and the cables with proper adhesive tape. This helps to prevent them from wobbling during transport. Individual parts before assembly: the 3D printer is ready in 20-30 minutes Make sure that the wheels from the heatbed are tightened and there is no play when trying to wiggle the bed. I needed to tighten the wheels. I recently struggled by findig a good and fast installation manual for Klipper with this combination. My plan is to make full use of the 3D printer's large surface area that is rare for it's tier. As a mid tier printer, it is worth the buy.The machine’s print head has an RGB LED on the underside. Therefore, your print object will always be beautifully illuminated (see below). Aside from some hex wrenches and a pair of pliers, the only tools you need to complete this project are some sort of drill (a cordless drill works just fine) and a ~3.5 mm drill bit, and maybe a clamp and a piece of scrap wood. Part