GAMES WORKSHOP Citadel Pot de Peinture - Shade Casandora Yellow (24ml)

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That sounds like a bunch of steps, but really it’s very easy or a hobby idiot like me couldn’t do it.

Lizzie: This is an incredibly versatile new shade of brown. It’s perfect for leather and cloth. This is fantastic for adding some extra grime to your Nurgle miniatures too. Just like Mantis Warrior Green, this green ups the balance in favour of yellow, making for an eye-catching tone with a wide range of uses. If you missed a spot, you’ll notice some underlying primer peaking through. Take your brush and repeat step #2 with the Yellow Contrast Paint. But, only apply it to the missed spot.

#fece5a foreground

Ultimately, I’ve discovered that I prefer using a regular brush more than airbrushing most of the time. Even though painting yellow across large models is still easier with an airbrush (see this 3D printed Imperial Fist Assault Tank paint job), I feel more accomplished when I finish a miniature painting with a regular brush. The Kroxigor is a lovely model and also very easy to assemble. I ended up using some liquid green stuff to fill some small gaps, but hard to know if that was my failure to fit the model properly or the nature of the kit. I undercoat the miniature with Vallejo Surface Primer via an airbrush. At this stage I normally end up also coating my desk and if I'm really good, my computer monitor.... Congrats if you have followed the tute up to this step. Your model is done. You and it are great. Go celebrate this greatness! TheChirurgeon’s Method

After that the whole mini was drybrushed lightly with Necron Compound all over with Emphasis being placed on Metallic Edges such as the Shoulders and Gorget. I'd be tempted to consider using something like, say, Mr. Color or Tamiya with lacquer thinner through an airbrush (if you have one) to get the initial yellow coat. Generally speaking, lacquer paints have much better coverage and play a lot nicer than acrylics, and I would imagine that would lessen the inherent problems with yellow somewhat. Mr. Color is an especially nice brand that sprays like a dream- use it with their levelling thinner to lessen the chances of pooling/orange peel. Tamiya works well with Mr. Color thinners too. I haven't actually tried airbrushing yellows from either company, but if their other paints I've used are anything to go by they should work well. Just as foundation paints, the old washes were very popular. Everybody loved them because they made it easy to get decent results in very little time, even for the not so gifted painters. I imagine a lot of people got quite nervous when they heard that their beloved washes got replaced. The shades definitely have to take on a difficult heritage, but in those video testimonials over on GW.com they full-bodied said that they made them even better. Let’s see if this is true. Verdict: Glazes are meant for the more experienced painter. You can create some interesting effects that wouldn’t be possible with regular paint, but be aware that the tint is quite strong so you probably need to thin them down for more subtle effects. Dry Compounds True to this tradition, the worlds of Warhammer have featured deserts heavily. The famous Battle of Tallarn in the Horus Heresy takes place on the the eponymous planet, turned into an irradiated wasteland by the Iron Warriors. In the Old World, the lands of Araby and Khemri were based on North Africa and the Middle East, which have a large number of desert and semi-desert regions, and of course the Mortal Realms contain all kinds of locales – Aqshy, the Realm of Fire, is an obvious choice for a desert landscape, but any realm could feature them. Ghur is home to the Bone Desert for example.

Monochromatic Colors

As you’ll see in the images, I simply took an inexpensive synthetic brush and applied a heavy undiluted coat of the contrast paint over the model. I agree, the casandora yellow over white works for normal minis, but I think pooling and uneven tone would be an issue for bulk shading vehicles unless you thinned it to more of a glaze and spent a fair bit of time on multiple layers. Straight yellow by brush similarly usually needs multiple thin layers to look decent, so again would be tedious at the scale. Now, as you’ve noticed that some of the surfaces on your model are splotchy where the Yellow Contrast Paint has pooled on the open, flat surfaces. On a space marine, this may mean you have uneven coverage (darkened spots) on the shoulder pauldrons, or along the leg armor plates. 4. Dry brush with a complementary yellow paint This is a lovely kit and I’m really happy with the results. There certainly were many fiddly bits, with many ropes and hidden crevices breaking up the surfaces and hiding out of sight. You’ll also need to decide for yourself if you want to go with the facemasks or not, but overall this is a very distinctive team (with clearly identifiable positionals!) that makes a great visual impact on the pitch.

As a result, I wrote this article to show you how I now approach painting yellow across my Imperial Fist Space Marine army.The spak provides the body to our base, allowing the texture paint, ink and dry brushing to do more effective work.