Compression 40mm Waste Pipe 90 Degree Bend

Product Information

Tighten until the screw cap goes tight and then give it one final pinch and all should be fine. If you do find it leaks, simply screw up a little tighter. Squeeze the handles again and let the cutting jaw bite into the pipe. Make sure before you do this that the cut is in the correct point. An important point to mention is that if you do tighten it too much this can damage the rubber seal or push it past the point of creating a good seal and leaks will start. In this case you will need to take it all apart and replace the seal if you can find an exact match or replace with a new compression unit if not. How to Cut Plastic Pipes for Compression Fittings

Normally, these situations are encountered during DIY and home improvement works, especially when converting older properties that may still be using imperial sized plumbing pipes and fittings and any new work will be done using modern metric. Plastic Washer: Once the below screw cap is screwed up it applies pressure to the washer which in turn presses down on the rubber seal, holding it in place and ensuring it seals Compression fittings are made mostly to use with 32mm or 40mm pipe work or to provide a conversion between two different sizes e.g. joining a 32mm pipe to a 40mm pipe. Continue pumping the handles until the jaws close and cut all the way through the pipe and you’re done! Now comes the rubber seal. Again, make sure that the taper is pointing in the right direction so that it slots into the main body of the compression joint. Ensure that it is not twisted and that it sits flat on the body of the pipeDue to the size of pipe you are cutting (32 or 40mm), you will need to get some of the shear-type cutters. Despite the above minor disadvantages, push fit plastic compression wastes do have many advantages that can be seen below: For those that are new to plumbing, compression fittings provide the ideal introduction as they are easy to fit and adjust Compression Waste Unit: In this case, this part is a 90° bend but can come in many different shapes. Made of solid plastic, it forms the main body of the compression joint A compression fitting is used to join two tubes or pipes or a pipe to a fixture or valve without soldering. They are preferred when installing cold or hot water pipes or repairing gas or central heating systems.

Assembly of the unit is pretty straight forward. If you have several sections of pipe to put together it’s best to get it together on a bench or open space if you can, then insert it into it’s final resting place in one piece and slot together the final sections. Assembly is as follows: Screw Cap: The final piece of the puzzle, this holds everything in place and ensures that the rubber seal provides a complete seal between the pipe and the main body Tapered Rubber Seal: This is pretty much the core part of the system – the tapered part of the seal pushes into the gap against the main compression body which also pushes in on the pipe holding it firmly in place and creating a seal between the pipe and the compression unit body preventing any leaksOpen up the shears to their full width and place the pipe on the base of the jaws. It does help to rest the cutters on bench or stable surface to support them and the pipe. No matter what your plumbing installation project involves, our large selection of brass compression fittings will have you covered, from elbows and nuts to tank and tap connectors. Our lead fittings collection includes brass compression coupling for joining lead pipes to copper tubes. The fittings in this range are not suitable for gas use. Whether you need an adaptor, a coupling, a tee or an elbow, our stainless steel compression fittings collection is suitable for connecting pipes in natural gas and LPG applications. Experience is everything for us To do this, use a fine piece of sandpaper, at least 280 grit or greater or a small file and gently run it around the edges until smooth – Don’t press too hard as you will scratch the pipe and this may cause leaks. Once done, the pipe is ready to fit.

Whilst cutting, keep your eye on your line and ensure the saw stays straight and true. Keep going until you are all the way through.

Assembling a Plastic Waste Compression Unit

Pump the handles which will operate the jaws of the shears and start closing them. As this is a ratchet system, one pump on the handle will close the jaws 10mm or so. Do this until the top cutting jaw is about 1mm off of the top of the pipe.

In most situations, you don’t need to screw the cap up too tight for it to provide enough pressure to create a seal. They are designed to be done up using hand pressure only so no grips or pliers are needed. As mentioned, the advantages with the shear-type cutters is that they leave no burrs so the pipe is ready to fit straight away. Assembling a Plastic Waste Compression Unit As above, measure and mark the position on the pipe that you want to cut, mark your point with a soft pen. Screw down the cap. Take your time while doing this and keep your eye on the seal and washer making sure they do not twist and that all is flush with the main body and pipe. Screw up until it starts to go tight and then give it one final pinch to create your water tight seal

What is a compression fitting?

Waste pipes used for push fit fittings and solvent weld fittings are two entirely different sizes and one of the easiest ways to join the two is by using compression fittings Compression fittings consist of three parts: a nut, a ring and a seat. When the compression fitting gets tightened, it provides a watertight connection. Helping you find the right compression fitting Our Irish compression fittings are made of brass bodies and olives. These are for use with Irish copper pipes. The imperial fittings selection for use on LPG includes bulkhead coupling, compression nuts, elbows, olives, stop ends, straight adaptors or couplers and tees.