Kodak Ektachrome E100G Colour Slide Film ISO 100 35 mm 36 Exposures Transparent

Product Information

Not having to go through the development process and also having easily shareable digital files was something that couldn’t be ignored. Unfortunately, this meant that Ektachrome increasingly was.

As a slide film, Ektachrome is designed to be developed using the E-6 process, which has evolved from the original E-1 process of 1946 via the E-2, E-3, E-4, and E-5 versions.High Speed Ektachrome, announced in 1959 [3] provided an ASA 160 color film, [4] which was much faster than Kodachrome. In 1968, Kodak started offering push processing of this film, allowing it to be used at ASA 400. [5] Ektachrome E100 with Vitessa L3. This scene was photographed in broad daylight; Ektachrome rendered the concrete slightly cooler than I remember but otherwise fairly accurately, including the skin tones. Specs and development.

E-6 was made available to the public in 1975, but only the pro films were available at the time. There were some color stability ("keeping") issues to verify before the amateur films could be released.Histogram equalization is a method that involves removing nose/fog from your scan without altering any of its original properties. While colour-correcting may change the image’s key attributes, histogram equalization does not do anything of the sort. Here’s how you can perform it: Elite Chrome EB: Often just called Elite Chrome 100. Kodak advertises this as “The daylight film is aimed at amateur photographers and amateurs”. There is no verifiable statements or information from Kodak, but it is widely reputed that EB was superior to EB3. Reportedly introduced to the market in 2003, For both the Leica and the Nikon setup I used each camera lens at f2 aperture to make it more comparible. Both lenses missed some photos to my annoyance (mis-focused). Voigtlander Nokton35mm f1.2 When Ektachrome overexposes or loses detail in the shadows, it does so gradually and gracefully. There is no banding as you’d expect from a digital camera, and with a good scanner , a lot can be restored from underexposed areas. It’s difficult to hold any of the following against Ektachrome itself, as these pertain to color reversal films more broadly. I’d be remiss, however, if I didn’t mention them:

I'm probably not Googling this correctly, but I'm confused about Kodachrome and Ektachrome. I love slide film myself and like to use it when I can afford to buy it! So the return of Ektachrome has peaked my interest. But I am a little muddled.When shot well, slide film like Ektachrome E100 should give results that colour negative films would struggle to replicate. The positives outweigh the negatives with Ektachrome (which is a horrible pun, I realize after writing that). In fact, there’s really just one thing I dislike about Ektachrome very specifically: Perhaps that’s why Ektachrome was often used for other things throughout its long history. Things like portraits and fashion shoots or landscape and nature work, where you could control the light or just wait for it to be optimal. Fuji (despite entreaties by myself and many others) has made the corporate decision to exit the film business, and are surprised by the exponential growth of Instax films. Film comprises a very small part of their overall business, and I think their rational is that film is a dying business, or at the least becoming a niche one they do not view as profitable. That is despite the fact Instax film has become incredibly profitable for them. I think my best results came when the sun was shining fully and pretty much shining fully from behind me. Any cloud cover affected my shots, and too much of a sideways angle of the light seemed to also. So that’s my non-expert advice for you when shooting yours.

Process history [ edit ] E-1 Initial Ektachrome process for sheet and roll film (1946 – c. 1950s) [11] [12] E-2 Updated Ektachrome process for roll film and 135 film (1955–1966). [13] [14] [15] A 1959 modification was called "improved" E-2. [16] E-3 Updated "professional" Ektachrome process for sheet film and Kodak EP professional rollfilm (1959 to 1976) E-4 Updated Ektachrome process for roll film and 135 film (1966–1996, see note) [17] E-4 was better at resisting fading than the earlier processes, with a life around 30 years. [18] E-5 Research project, only saw minor use in a revised form as the aerial film process AR-5 E-6 Current Ektachrome process used for all major color reversal films and formats, first released in 1977. The conditioner, bleach and stabilizer baths were modified in the mid-1990s to remove the formaldehyde from the stabilizer: This change was indicated by changing the names of the conditioner step to pre-bleach step, and the stabilizer step to the final rinse step; E-6P: Used for push processing of Kodak Ektachrome films in general, and particularly for Kodak Ektachrome EPH ISO 1600 film, [19] which has a speed of ISO 400 in normal E6, but is exposed at EI 1600 and push processed two stops in the first developer bath (10:00 @100.0°F) to achieve the ISO 1600 speed rating. (It is natural for a faster film to require a longer first development time. This is sacrificed in the case of most color processing for consistency in processing, especially in machine processing.) E100VS Film also features KODAK T-GRAIN® Emulsions for very fine grain and an unsurpassed level of sharpness in a 100-speed film….E100VS Film is ideal for photographers who must create high-color transparency images that spring to life on the light box. It’s an appropriate choice for nature, scenics, wildlife, food, jewellery, and any subjects that call for brilliant, dramatic hues.The mighty Kodak also made the Elite Chrome range aimed at consumers alongside the pro-spec Ektachrome films. Like Precisa, these films were more wallet friendly than their professional grade brothers. And if there’s one thing that LOMOgraphers liked, it was cheaper film. To get closer, let’s first take a tip from St. Thomas Aquinas and define this film in terms of what it is not. Despite its marketing as a professional film, Ektachrome is not the most capable, most accurate slide film on offer. That title still belongs to Fuji Provia 100F. Provia is a more versatile film because of its wider exposure latitude, and for my money, it’s a more accurate film when it comes to color balance. If pressed for a job that required an accurate color slide film, I’d choose Provia over Ektachrome. In my 3rd post, which documented my 4th roll, I began my experiments with an incident meter. I am aware of the concepts of incident metering, but I’m not well-practised. As such, my feeling was that if I combined learning how to better incident meter when shooting reversal film I would increase my knowledge of how to expose Ektachrome E100 as best as possible as well as also bettering my incident meter skills. If you’re looking for more, you can jump over to my Kodak E100VS experimentation article. for examples of push processing, cross processing and both.