Games Workshop 99129999012" Citadel Skulls Miniature, Black, for 12 years to 99 years

Product Information

A final thin highlight of Army Painter Lava Orange [ Troll Slayer Orange] was applied. Then I applied a small dot of VMC White [ White Scar] for the reflection. Hello everyone! I've had some thought about this kit rattling around in my head for a few days now, and I've finally decided to put them down on virtual paper. For most skulls and other details of this size, I tend to use my favorite workhorse brush, an Army Painter Wargamer Regiment (see my full review of the Regiment paint brush).

I highlighted the lenses with Mephiston Red, then old Blood Red [ Evil Sunz Scarlet], concentrating my highlights on the front and lower parts of the lenses.The Morghast skull is extremely detailed and could make for some absolutely amazing Death conversions. I can see the skull being used for a head on Daemon Princes or maybe even 40k Dreadnoughts.

There are a lot of different types of skulls in this kit, so I’m not going to be talking about the Human and Ork skulls more than a mention here and there.

Games Workshop:

The Citadel Skulls from the Warhammer basing materials range provides a set of highly detailed miniature skulls that are ideal for basing your miniatures. Enter the Citadel Skulls. This is a box of 340 plastic skulls, designed for the hobbyist to decorate scenery, bases and models as they see fit. There are even 20 extra jawbones! In Warhammer this often happens when the Warp/Realm of Chaos is treated as just a very nasty place, instead of an abstract Realm, where time and space hold no sway. I remember an anatomical drawing for demons in one of the D&D Demonomicons that really made me think "Here is an example of someone who doesn't get that demons aren't just nasty people. As a note, you can paint the skulls or bones before or after the rest of the model. I find it easiest on most miniatures to paint bone material before I do metallic surfaces, since I’m able to use the shade wash with less concern with it spilling over into other areas. I can cover up any mess around the skull and bony parts when I paint other parts of the model. Bonus Step – Glaze other colors for special effects and apply a matte varnish

With some work the Kroot skulls could be used to make Tzanngor skulls. The spines would need to be cut and shaved down a bit as feathers aren’t made of bone and are held on a body by the skin, but some of the Tzanngors have spines growing out of their bodies, so that might not be such a big issue.

I layered RMS Polished Bone but only on the skull of the cheast eagle, then highlighted the whole chest eagle with Vallejo Model Color White [ White Scar, but VMC White is my favourite white when it comes to coverage]. I've shopped around for bulk numbers of skulls before this kit was released, and found a few companies that sell large numbers of skulls. Understandably, they are always in either metal or resin because plastic injection molding is still very expensive to get started. Warseer Forum/EEFL Forum Games Workshop Fantasy release timeline: https://eefl.freeforums.net/thread/1622/games-workshop-fantasy-releases-timeline Drakenhof Nightshade (Citadel) – A very dark blue shade that will add a cool tone to your bony painting, which contrasts nicely with warm undertones and base coats This is where I will introduce the metric of dollars per skeleton (DPS) going forward with the in production kits. These prices are based on official company webstores.

The Primaris Intercessor was primed with Mechanicus Standard Grey from Games Workshop, the armour then basecoated with a couple of thinned coats of Formula P3 Pig Iron [ Leadbelcher]. I like to add a little drop of Vallejo Game Color Glaze Medium or Lahmian Medium to thin metallic paints, in addition to a drop of water. Metallic paints tend to dry rather fast, and the Glaze Medium will help to create a smoother basecoat. Of course, you could also use Leadbelcher spray for basecoating, or even use an airbrush. When you’re done painting bone, remember to protect your work with a good matte varnish. I highly-recommend using a matte varnish, which will remove and even out any reflections on your model. A matte finish is particularly important for painting bone, which is naturally matte and non-reflective–unless it’s the frightening maw of a living creature, dripping with slimy saliva. Tips for Painting More Realistic Bone (or Anything, Really) The massive skull is one that is kinds stumping me. It could be used as the head of a massive undead or Nurgle beast. I could also see it in use for some kind of Khorne project. It strikes me that the top portion and facial area of the skull could be used to decorate a chaos chariot. If you really wanted to do some work you might even be able to make the body and face of a Nurgle Plague Toad out of the skull.There are a lot of options out there for skulls of humans, and even some for ork skulls. Sure, some of these kits are most specialized like the flaming skulls from GSW, and the skulls with bionics from Wargame Exclusive. For many that may be a significant difference, but comparing the price per skulls, product material, and variety of skull types the Citadel Skulls set blows them all out of the water. Vallejo Game Color Brown Ink [you can also use thinned Doombull Brown] was used to deep shade around the screws. As an Undead fan who started the Warhammer hobby in the late 90’s, I already had the GW kits on hand. For the purposes of this article I bought one sprue of each kit from other manufacturers. It makes a lot of sense for wargamers to look at miniatures available outside Games Workshop when they’re looking for gaming pieces. Early on in my hobby days I often wondered how I could fill out an army without paying the GW tax for their ‘premium’ models. There weren’t many options at that time, and finding them could be difficult. Today however there are a variety of models available. Mantic recently released Ancient Egyptian styled skeletons in their Army of Dust, they look neat, but don’t really fit the flavor of this article. Games Workshop: 1988 Skeleton Warriors First plastic skeleton warriors with metal command. Source: Undead Army Book by Games Workshop I highlighted the polished metal with Army Painter Shining Silver [Runefang Silver or Stormhost Silver].