SANI SEAL BL01 Toilet Gasket, Others, 1

Product Information

If that is the situation you will need to take the lid off your cistern to take a look inside. You may want to do this first, especially if it’s easier to do than turning off the water. Somewhere within your cistern there will be an overflow pipe. It might be attached to the side of your cistern and go outside through the wall. If it’s a modern toilet with buttons on top to flush with it may go out into the toilet pan with the flushing water. After the water supply is turned off flush the toilet with the large flush to empty the cistern. Then unscrew the clamping nut from the Fill Valve. See Pic.5 below. Have an old towel to hand to mop up a small amount of water. This will come out of the connecting hose. Pic. 5. The Inlet Valve Connection Pic. 5. The Inlet Valve Connection. If particles of rubber have broken off the old sealing ring then carefully scrape them away from the valve flange and the perimeter of the cistern hole. Then reseal with a new sealing ring. First up is The Fluidmaster “Better Than Wax” universal toilet seal. This wax-free toilet gasket fits most toilets and is easily re-positionable without the fuss of dealing with wax which can be somewhat messy if you have to re-position the bowl.The company says that once in place, it will create a very tight and effective seal that will resist the effects of average toilet plunging. Where air is damp and still, mould will live. Replacing The Coupling Plate On A Toilet Leaking Fresh Water

Finally the screws which hold the cistern up against the wall should be re-fitted. These screws should be made of a none corrosive metal. Usually brass screws are used but stainless steel screws are just as good. I have obtained some No. 12 × 2½” brass screws, see Pic. 14& 15a, from SCREWS LINE to replace my old steel ones. I also managed to cover them with the original Screw Caps, see Pic. 15b, which work as a cushion between screw head and porcelain. Pic. 14. New Brass Screws To Hold The Cistern To The Wall Pic. 14. New No. 12 × 2½” Brass Screws To Hold The Cistern To The Wall. Pic. 15. Cistern Hung With Brass Screws & Capped Pic. 15a. Cistern Hung With No. 12 × 2½” Brass Screws. Pic. 15b. Cistern No. 12 × 2½” Hanging Screws Capped. 10. Reconnect The Water Supply Some people like to apply sealing compounds to the seals and rubber rings used to make watertight connections. I find that when parts are new or undamaged there’s no need. Rubber rings are used because they seal well as long as they are seated correctly and have the right amount of pressure applied when tightened. Would you mind sharing a link to the Thetford toilet you bought? I may re-place our toilet this spring,

Wax & Wax-free Toilet Seals

Older plates were made of rust-able steel. They may have been painted, pressed from tin-plate, electroplated or galvanised but they rusted nonetheless.

Good Question, I think? For this old timer, the good old fashion 100% virgin wax seal has been and still is the most popular way to set a toilet bowl today. That being said, there are new products coming into the market each and every day. Today I’d like to briefly introduce you to two of them which are becoming ever more popular among the do it yourself community. The Sani Seal gasket is made of a very flexible polyurethane foam that is re-positionable, antimicrobial and functions no matter what the temperature, providing an easy trouble free installation. They both will position the toilet bolts in such a way that you literally can’t miss when setting a toilet bowl. Because the Sani Seal gasket extremely flexible, I think it would be the best choice if your floor is not exactly level.In these situations, you’ll need to remove the old wax seal and install a new one. That requires applying enough indirect heat to soften the wax so that you can scrape it off. It’s a messy job, especially if two wax seals were used. Under the closet pan are all those screw threads and wing nuts hanging down. Some are inclined to go rusty and so may be greased. None of it ideal territory for cleanliness. Modern close coupled toilets often have two holes in the cistern for fitting stainless steel bolts with rubber washers. These are tightened to the cistern to prevent them leaking. In between these bolts is the hole for fitting the outlet valve. When fitted it’s nut is covered with a spongy rubber gasket. Your toilet may be filling up with too much water and overflowing. If it is overflowing it will not stop filling and you will hear a filling noise coming from the pipes all the time. You can test this by turning off the water supply to the toilet. There may be a tap/valve near to your toilet specially to do that, or you may have to turn off the water at the main stop valve where the pipe comes into your property. If the noise stops when the water is completely turned off, you can assume that the inlet valve in the toilet is always open because the water level in the cistern can’t rise high enough to shut it off. Having re-equipped the cistern with a new coupling plate it can be fixed to the closet pan. First the doughnut seal needs to be laid in the circular recess around the large central hole in the pan. See Pic. 12 below. Pic. 12. The Closet Pan Holes For The Cistern Fittings Pic. 12a. The Closet Pan Without The Doughnut Seal In Place. Pic. 12b. The Closet Pan With The Doughnut Seal In Place.

Then, as the cistern is lowered, the bolts have to be aligned to pass through the two holes either side of the central hole in the pan. This is done by jiggling the cistern around until they drop through. A rusty coupling plate may have left some nasty looking rust marks on the porcelain of the cistern and closet pan. These may need a fine abrasive to remove them. I use a green scourer as shown below in Pic. 9. Pic. 9. Green Fibre Scouring Pad Green Fibre Scouring Pad Movement or cleaning chemicals could damage the surface of the product. If this happens, the inner foam may become soaked with wastewater and start to leak. If there is water overflowing there may be some type of leak in the overflow pipework which is the source of the water. You will have to look for it while the cistern lid is off and see if you can find it.Pic. 11 below shows the reassembled cistern with the outlet valve clamping the coupling plate to the cistern. Pic. 11a is without the doughnut seal and Pic. 11b shows how the doughnut seal sits against the coupling ring. Pic. 11. The Cistern With A New Coupling Plate & Seal Pic. 11a. The Cistern With A New Coupling Plate. Pic. 11b. The Cistern With A New Coupling Plate & Doughnut Seal.

The spacer included is separate from the seal itself. Therefore you have a choice whether or not to use it depending upon the location of your flange. This greatly increases the flexibility of the design. Once the wax-free seal is in place, just lower the toilet onto the flange, and the ring seals as it compresses. There’s no need to worry about temperature. The material’s flexibility compensates for imperfect placement of the toilet while still forming a perfect seal. You can reposition the toilet several times without needing a new ring as you would with wax. You’ll still need to ensure the toilet is firmly seated. If the seal doesn’t compress enough to let the weight of the toilet rest on the floor, you’ll end up with a wobbly toilet that puts too much weight on the flange. It has a soft, flexible construction and, as a result,the product really moulds into the join creating a snug seal. Uneven floor surfaces are no problem and the rubber seal will flex in line with toilet movement over time.If (1) the leak is continuous then (1a) does the water dribble continuously into the toilet pan or (1b) does it run out between the cistern and the top of the metal plate and appear near to the seat hinges? The flexible hose must have a sealing washer inside the clamping nut, then it can be re-attached to the inlet valve. Care must be taken so it doesn’t get cross threaded. It can be screwed on a long way by hand but at the final tightening an adjustable wrench will be required. Pic. 16. The Inlet Valve Connection Pic. 16. The Inlet Valve Connection. 11. Turn The Water Supply On