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While these difficulties can undoubtedly be resolved it's a lot of futzing about when the stated goal is to make the job easier. Used with a router and router sled, they also work well for flattening end-grain cutting boards or wood with difficult grain patterns such as crotch wood. Regardless of the router itself I always recommend a 50% (1") wide pass at a maximum of 1/8" depth with the Mega Dado. With the 25mm flute bit I wasn't really restricted for depth of cut- it'd quite happily remove 15mm high spots. Would you get less tearout for example, if you work outside ->in, moving in a counterclockwise direction?
Might get the Lee Valley kit or build a jig from scratch similar to the one suggested by Infinity Tools. I'd suggest using your router table's fence and making passes in the usual direction (right to left), and moving the fence a little farther from the bit after each pass.The content contained on this site is provided for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. The original poster mentioned treppaning bits from wealdons, they have replacable blades, but are over a 100.
The bits have tungsten carbide tips that retain their hardness at high temperatures, so the bits keep their precision-ground edges for a clean cut.Some expert woodworking guys always use the best router bit for planer and designing their canvases aka wood pieces. You'll be working blind, so you can't see in real time what the bit is doing and whether a problem is occurring that can't be heard but only seen.