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They normally really on a secondary heat source such as a heat mat. We have always preferred to use heat mats rather than heat lamps. As indeed these provide the heat underneath the pups, where its needed. Rather than risking overheating the bitch. (Not to mention that fact that heat lamps are very expensive to run. They can consuming up to 10x the electricity consumed by a heat pad) Our heat pads come equipped with an ambient temperature sensor. The ambient temperature sensor sits between the battery case and wiring harness, allowing the heat pad to only be turned on when below 35°F. Once the ambient temperature sensor reaches 35°F, the switch is enabled, allowing current to flow to the heat pad. I'm not even worried about the heat generated from them other than if it will stay on for a period of an hour or so without having it turn itself off being sandwiched in the design I'm thinking about. As I said all cells can be seen/ monitored on a display panel in live time readings. Once the cells warm up it would as simple as turning the heating pad off. Using 12v instead of 120v saves the lose of converting from the inverter. The only thing that I'm thinking about is with the built in temp on the heating pad will it be turning itself off because it will be within the sandwich under the batteries and not in an open air space of holding tanks? I tapped into the heat duct run from the furnace as can be seen in the original post, all that's needed is to remove the cover on the end of the drop down hose for more heat to get pushed into the compartment instead of just radiating off of hose. The compartment has already been insulated fairly well, maybe the entire floor in the front compartment should have a piece of foam/ plywood on it just as a layer of insulation.
Vinyl Pet Heat Pad - Petnap Pet, Cats, Dogs and Puppies Vinyl Pet Heat Pad - Petnap Pet, Cats, Dogs and Puppies
As the temperature sensor needs to fit closely to the battery, make sure to measure your wire length and always leave a little extra length until you are ready to complete the heat pad’s installation. I have never bough any type of heating element for a propagator. I started by deciding the approximate power rating I estimated would be required to warm the area I wanted. The voltage was decided by what transformers I has available , (Mostly 12 volts or 24 volts.) From that I worked out the resistance required. I then looked at what wire I had and measured its resistance per meter. (I would actually measure the resistance of several meters as the resistance of one meter would be quite low. ) Among the things I have use have been single conductor copper wire and plastic coated iron garden wire. The wire was then just wrapped round hooks at the end of the frame is a zigzag pattern to use up the calculated length. Sometimes I would wrap the length of wire round a sheet of plywood so it was more or less evenly spaced. I think you will find that you need a very large battery. I would estimate you would need at least 100 watts for the size you require. (And that is assuming you have some thermal insulation under the heating element and some kind of enclosure above the plants. (I also live in Lancashire and those estimates are from what I have used in the past.) The heating pad can be connected to the 12v fuse panel with a switch added inline to turn it on/ off if needed. Power consumption should be roughly 6a which would be a little more than 1% an hour of my battery bank, I'm thinking it probably wouldn't need to be used more than an hour or so periodically.
As a fulltimer living off lfp/ solar not being able to charge the batteries could be an issue as I recently found out. After the thermal wraps are in place, wire each heating pad to the main fuse panel or directly to the lithium battery using the included 10 amp fuse (we installed ours directly to the batteries using positive and negative bus bars). Lastly, install the master control switch to allow on-off operation of the heating pads. Operation
Heat Pad with Battle Born Batteries How to Use a Heat Pad with Battle Born Batteries
For this modification, you’ll need the following components available mostly through our friends at Expion360 who designed and tested this system for their excellent VPR PowerMod 12 volt Lithium Battery: It is worth to note that control of the temperature should always be in place, and the safety margin applied as the maximum peak temperature for this silicone part should never exceed +300°C. The Vinyl Pet Heat Pad’s for newborn puppies as they are very vulnerable to chills in their first few days. This is because they cannot control their own body temperature and reply on the bitch for heat. The ambient temperature sensor should be placed in between the adhesive side of the heat pad and the item wished to be heated (in this case, between the heat pad and the battery). Note: R egarding the Standard, Large and Giant Heat Pads listed here they are not 12v they can’t be used with a car adaptor in a vehicle)
Operation
Our Battle Born Batteries ship with 18-8 stainless steel 5/16 – 18 1” and 1 ¼’ bolts, brass washers and 18-8 stainless steel nuts with nylon inserts.
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