Games Workshop Shade Carroburg Crimson Acrylic Paint (Red, Pot, Carroburg Crimson, Metal, Plastic, 25 ml)

Product Information

That’s your baseline, but it’s just a place to start. You can easily tweak skin in various ways by adding little touches of glazes or filters. Try these: For Horns I generally use Banshee Brown, Skrag Brown, or Deathclaw brown. I do like to get a bit fancy sometimes. I like to try and wet blend from a Deathclaw Brown or Skrag Brown up to the Banshee for a nice little growth gradient. I’ve done a few where I start with a Vallejo Beasty Brown or Charred Brown to the Deathclaw and then to the Banshee for a real shift in colors. You can help with this gradient by doing a second wash on only the darker part of the gradient after the first has dried. I have also found you can get some interesting effects if you use a second color wash before the first has dried completely – like doing a Reikland or Carroburg over the Agrax just at the very base where it comes out of the flesh. Just make sure to wash your brushes so you don’t cross contaminate your wash pots. Eyes

For guts I have no idea what I’ve done for sure. I’ve probably layered over the purple some Dechala Lilac, the Screamer Pink, or Vallejo Squid Pink, or any mix of those three. And I mean either mixed together, layered on top of each other, or both. I have no idea what looks best, because I don’t remember! But if you recall my main point, it doesn’t matter! Call it different stages of rot, different gut diseases, older or newer wounds, terran guts vs. eldar guts, doesn’t really matter. Find something that works, or find 3 somethings that make you happy, and keep trying. Plaguebearers are the best for experimenting with this, as you can just move on to the next one trying new colors until something looks right. You can even cover it up with some Blood for the Blood God technical if it looks really bad and you hate it.

Always Be Supercharging

Jain Zar by Gav Thorpe also features the Drukhari in significant fashion and gives them some real show-stealing scenes.

ZIVth has probably told you a whole lot of stuff about the specifics of melanin and the biology of skin. I don’t know all that much about those things. I did, however, take some serious art classes and really enjoyed portraiture, so I had some experience with portraying skin, and mixing colors, as well as some of the theory about how light interacts with your skin. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/media/e588d28183cec31ffd6dcee6d3718fc3.cms/equivalencias-rev05.pdf Next comes the hole interior, which I’m just painting with Leadbelcher and washing with Nuln Oil. Nothing too fancy – you want to cover the spots where the paint has chipped. This doesn’t have to be leadbelcher; it can be whatever the material under the paint on the armor is supposed to be. Lay down a thin layer of Vallejo Model Air Light Gull Gray on the bone bits – you want this to be thin and ever so slightly inconsistent to give the effect of weathered and bleached bone After I lay down these colors, it’s time for shading. I cover the model in liberal coats of Agrax Earthshade and Reikland Fleshshade to tint the skin and give it more color depth. These go on haphazardly, but I’ll pool around the sores and add streaks in key places like below open sores and wounds to give it the skin a stained appearance from whatever was seeping out. I’ll also add a bit of Coelia Greenshade where I want more green hues.

Painting Night Lords

The scales are one of the defining features of 2nd edition Alpha Legion army. I painted these by freehanding thin “U” shapes on the model’s greaves and shoulder pad with The Fang, then I highlight them a bit at the bottom of the U with Reaper Snow Shadow.