ProGold Xtreme Chain Lubricant 4oz, Yellow, One Size

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ProLink Chain Lube utilizes metal friction reducers in a formula that won’t gunk up over time. This makes it ideal for chains, as well as other metal-to-metal interfaces such as pivot pins on front and rear derailleurs and brake calipers. Testing ProLink Wax doesn't seem to last as long in Winter as I'd like, but I've gotten used to wiping off and re-waxing my chain after rides (not before) and leaving it to dry overnight. I've not stretched to two-chains per bike, though technically there'd be no real hassle involved. Taking a chain off takes seconds these days, and shaking it clean in a bottle of solvent a few minutes. Ditto dipping it in wax and hanging it. In a study of the efficiency of bicycle chain drives by James Spicer in 2000, it’s suggested that chain lubrication has a negligible effect on efficiency under laboratory conditions, and that friction can account for only a few percent of the overall losses in drivetrain efficiency. It seems a little silly to wax poetic about a chain lube, but this stuff is so good we think you’ll like it as much as we do. I have found it best to over-lube the chain, and then wipe it down the next morning before the ride. This gives the ProLink chain oil a chance to soak in — working itself between the pins, bushings and plates. The chain will then be able to perform at

PROGOLD Lubricants Extensive Review - Bike Test Reviews PROGOLD Lubricants Extensive Review - Bike Test Reviews

Great lube for screws, nuts and bolts, but, in my opinion, a little heavy for bearing internals (lubing the balls and races) and cables in which you want a lighter viscocity. Tester Stu writes: “ChainJ is made from renewable materials, and is biodegradable making it 'safe for the people and the planet.' ProLink Chain Lube is a ‘thin-bodied’ lubricant which utilizes metal friction reducer technology for smooth shifting and a quiet drive train.

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Mungecrundle: Having run out of dry lube, I used some Wurth motorcycle chain wax and have been using it ever since. Dries in a few minutes, keeps the chain clean and running smoothly. Only shortcoming is that as a spray lube you need to be careful that it doesn't get to where it isn't supposed to be.

Prolink Chain Lube - 4 oz. | REI Co-op ProGold Prolink Chain Lube - 4 oz. | REI Co-op

Chain lube (or anything really) should NOT have PTFE in it. Why not? It’s exceptionally bad for the environment. Actually it’s inordinately bad for everything. The reason I stopped doing that was that the wax treatment only lasted a week or two unless topped up with some other wax lubricant (e.g. Smoove), so in the end I thought it was less trouble to just go with the pre-made lubricant. matthewn5: Singer sewing machine oil. Cheap and lasts for ever. I use Muc-off wet lube as a flushing oil to clean the chain, wipe it off, then apply sewing maching oil, wiping off excess. The chain feels so plush afterwards, it's lovely. As with any products, you should follow the instructions because generally it’s recommended to start with a clean chain before applying lube, rather than just layering it up. Do I really need to lube my chain? Oh and that was periodically degreasing and washing the chain completely and then relubing with car full synthetic oil. I wouldn't do it on a spendy chain but then I wouldn't use those spendy chains on a bike that gets taken out in all the shitty conditions the UK weather will throw at you.

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Do not use on paint, rubber and plastics. If using to clean chain, wipe frame immediately after use. Prior to a training ride, I scrubbed the chain completely clean, then oiled with ProLink. 40 miles later, I put Results from wiping a clean chain with 40 miles on it. Argus Tuft: One or two weeks between lubes is about right, maybe 300-400km.When it starts to make the whirring sound. To summarize my test results at the time I wrote this review, I have 3,200 miles on my chain and it was at 70% wear. I am convinced that ProLink Chain Lube contributed to this chain’s long life. The chain still shifts great and there is little wear on

ProGold ProLink Chain Lube Review - Road Bike Rider Cycling Site

fukawitribe replied to r.glancy: I've found Squirt stays on pretty well (for me anyway) even in the wet - very clean, very easy to apply, not so cheap. I've not tried Smoove yet but heard good things about running it, not so much the actual prep and application, probably give it a whirl at some point though. From a cost/benefit viewpoint, there's no point spending more on hi-tec unguents than you're saving on drivetrain wear. The easiest way to switch over to ProLink is simply to apply it to your current chain. (That’s assuming it’s not coated with gummy sludge. If it is, clean it first.) By wetting the links thoroughly, old lube will be loosened and the chain can be wiped clean. Not clean enough? Do it again. And maybe a third time following a ride or two. Do you need 6 chains for multiple bikes or do chains not last as long with waxing vs oiling? I'm guessing two chains is a good idea as unlike oil, you can't wax a chain in 30secs before a ride?Chain lube should not cost an arm and a leg. Even our favorite lubes really, should be cheaper. I wish we found a cheap, bio lube that we could sell. But as it is, the two lubes we offer are pretty cheap, in the scheme of things. I left the factory lube on like Sheldon Brown suggests, but after as little at 200 miles the chain was already 0.5% stretched. It's simplest on a new/clean drivetrain, you just need to degrease/clean/dry the chain then wash in the hot wax. So there is some outlay in electric hotpot, thermometer, wax and degreasing/cleaning chemicals. Argus Tuft: I'm with bikespud. Wax every time. Boeshield (T47?), White Lightning – It's just wax dissolved in solvent. It even says as much on the Boeshield bottle. Make your own and use heaps. It's almost free! I use RnR gold, RnR red, Muc Off wet, Muc Off dry. Pretty lazy cleaning and applying but when used even the filthiest chain sets smooth out.