Hornby R070 00 Gauge Turntable Electric

Product Information

The special worms are also available....just need a worm puller to remove existing worm....and a method of fitting new worm without damaging the motor.... I used to produce this 'adaptor', initially as a 'service' to model railwayers, but have found it financially unviable. The Hornby method of conversion is a bit brutal and will invalidate the guarantee. There are a few different ways of converting for DCC and may not require removal of the bridge

Bad news on worms. There doesn't seem to be any way I can extract my existing worm without a special tool, which of course I don't have - and I have tried just pulling. And the plastic worm on the X03 looks too short from Peter's illustration.

Hello,

Kerry, you've now used up your two posts until this time tomorrow. If only you had answered ALL my questions like Q1 & Q4 in the absence of full answers. I shall now have to make some assumptions to fill in the gaps. From my point of view, I run my trains via Railmaster programs, including the movement of the turntable. I prefer to be as automated as possible so that I can enjoy watching the trains, rather than spend a lot of time and mental energy controlling them myself. But as I say, that is only my personal preference. Failing that, how feasible do you think it would be for me to fit the worm myself, using a mechanic's vice? It looks like it is theoretically possible, but do you think there is too much risk of motor damage - bent shaft, etc.? I would still have to buy a new worm from Peter at the same time as a wormless motor, because my existing worm can't be freed from my current motor. Definitely Plan B. to them continues to do so and the isolation continues to avoid shorts during rotation. All you need to be aware of is outlet polarity on the reversed polarity outlets and getting that correct with respect to layout polarity.

Very late X.04 locomotive motors were in fact the X.03 (Later Type) motor specification, but fitted with the Brass two-start worm...I will see how much noise a new motor makes at reduced voltage once I get one, and assess whether I can live with it. Otherwise I will play with bits of flannelette in carefully selected spots inside (wouldn't want it to get into the gears or motor!). Given the very low duty cycle of the motor, I wouldn't have thought heat build-up would be too much of an issue (but we'll see). I'm tempted to get a R070 Turntable for a Thomas based kiddies layout, which will be controlled via DCC. is a very nice number when discussing this sort of thing. When a circle is divided into 16 slices, the angle is 22.5 degrees, the same angle seen on a compass. Unfortunately, in the mathematics of the RM layout, there angles are multiples of 45 degrees from the horizontal or vertical. So in the suggested icon above, the new outlets which are at positions NNE, ENE, ESE, SSE, SSW, WSW, WNW, and NNW i.e. the 22.5 degree ones, are converted to fit the RM geometry by connecting to the centre of an adjoining grid cell, making a slight kink as it does so .... No - the TT has a 'Split Ring' that reverses the bridge rail polarity once it has passed the half way position in a full rotation. It seems that that the turntable gear is the same as used in an X.03 powered loco, and that therefore the X.03 worm should work...if it has the length to reach the gear?