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Posted 20 hours ago

Premier Range Rapid Grab Glass Splashback Adhesive

£9.9£99Clearance
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About this deal

Before installation, ensure that your walls are clean and dust-free - and you have filled any holes - the flatter the surface, the easier you will find the installation. Warm, soapy water is perfect for cleaning both your wall and the plastic itself. If measured by the manufacturer, all measurements should be taken accurately by someone with the experience necessary to ensure they are correct A watered down PVA or SBR solution should do the job. Once brushed on to the wall and dry, this will seal the wall and also provide a good "key" for bonding adhesive. Seal up the Worktop

Additionally, it is important that you also hold the file as flat to the edge as possible as if you file at an angle, especially where two pieces are joined together, this will widen the joint and again, spoil the visual appearance. If you are purchasing from a supplier then its well worth having one of their reps come out and measure up for you. This may cost a little extra but they will be very experienced in this job and if there are any discrepancies in the measurements then it will be up to them to correct where as if you supply your own plans and measurements then any mistakes will be down to you. Using a drill and a suitable drill bit for acrylic, drill four holes into the inner corners of the rectangle you drew. Place a piece of wood underneath each hole as you drill to prevent splintering. Remember not to force the drill through. Let it run through at its own pace! If you have to join two separate lengths of acrylic, you have two options. The first is to butt the two pieces of acrylic together, and providing you’ve cut two perfect edges, they should meet up against one another to provide a seamless finish. If cut correctly, you shouldn’t even notice the join. Drill each fixing point using a suitable sized drill bit (normally 5 – 6mm) to the required depth. Place a wall plug in each hole ready to take the screw.

Benefits of an Acrylic Splashback

You can use various saws to cut through acrylic, including a jigsaw, circular, or table saw. Whichever saw you choose, ensure you use a blade suitable for acrylic, which ideally is a fine and closely spaced tooth blade. According to Cut Plastic Sheeting, wide space teeth will cause the acrylic to chip. If you have made any cuts you might now notice that the cut edges are a little rough so we will need to now sort these out. When using wet and dry paper, this will need to be done in several stages using several different grades of paper: The edges of the sheeting should be fixed in place in the joint using bonding adhesive and the joint itself can be fixed to the walls surface using the tape mentioned above. Repairing Scratches in Acrylic Unless either of the above applies to you, the simplest and easiest method is adhesive. Regardless of which you choose, we’ll take you through each method in this guide.

If you have a large, flat area it is possible to do this before fitting, but you will have to be careful not to split it. As glass does not bend the surface will need to be flat and any undulations will need to be smoothed out, with any major dips of holes filled with a suitable filler and then sanded down. Try to clean off any splashes as soon as you can. The longer you leave that curry or beans, the harder your job will be. If you find that there are extreme dips over large sections of the surface (more than 6mm in depth) it is propably worth considering getting the entire surface re-plastered ( more information can be found in our plastering projects section). Clean and Seal the Wall As mentioned previously in this project, unless the manufacturer states that the acrylic you are using is safe to use behind a cooker or stove, it’s probably not worth putting it behind your cooker rings as over time, the heat will damage it and cause it melt or even catch fire!Once the surface has been prepared and all loose material removed give it a good wipe over with a suitable cleaning agent to remove any dust or grease. If purchasing your own, you will need some with internal threads in the head. This will then allow you to screw in a ″finishing cover″. These types of screw are often called mirror screws. See our project on types of screws for more information.

You then need to apply equally-sized blobs of adhesive of around 20mm in diameter every 100mm apart. Remember not to place any blobs too close to the edge, as this can cause the glue to seep out around the edge. The filing itself will remove the majority of the major burrs but it is also best to use some wet and dry paper to give it the final finish.Drills: You should only use drill bits made specifically for drilling acrylic. This are normally pre-ground twist bits. When drilling, make sure that you don’t push the bit through the acrylic as it can burst through the bottom and cause sections to splinter off. Support the drill hole with a piece of timber and drill down into this to help stop any damage of this kind However, there are advantages and disadvantages to both of the above that you should be aware of: Advantages Keeping the protective film on the acrylic, transfer your measurements onto the acrylic sheet using a pencil line and a long ruler. Apply some masking tape over the top of this line and then re-draw it onto the masking tape. The masking tape will ensure that it won’t chip or splinter when you cut the acrylic. 5. Preparation Before Cutting If you follow your cutting plan (presuming that it is correct) then the end result should be a perfect piece of acrylic, ready to fit!

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